Common Can-Am Maverick X3 Problems

You’d be surprised at some of the problems that plague the Can-Am Maverick X3. It’s pretty serious stuff, but the good thing is that all of them can be mitigated or outright prevented thanks to updates from the factory or aftermarket parts. 

We’ll highlight the major issues with the X3 so you know what to look for, whether it’s your own rig, or if you’re in the market for a used one.

Engine and Performance Issues

These issues may be dependent on the model, while others exist across the lineup. Some suffer overheating, while just about all of them can experience turbo failure or leaking gaskets.

Turbo Failure

There are several sizes of turbo found on the X3 providing different power levels, but the bottom line is that all of them can fail. Turbochargers have the potential to catastrophically fail, sending metal through your engine. Sounds scary? It is, but usually, this won’t happen unless you're pushing a turbo past what it’s capable of (i.e., overspinning it).

In most cases, turbo failure will be a gradual process that can be caught early. The most basic symptom is a loss of power, but some other things to look out for are unusual whistling or grinding noises while ‘on throttle’ and light gray/blue smoke out of the exhaust. If you have any of these signs, it’s time for some investigation. 

If you have a loss of power, checking fault codes is a good place to start. This is done by holding the ‘M’ button on your instrument cluster, then rapidly spamming the high beam 4-6 times. Your cluster should display any fault codes. Typical codes related to turbo system failure are P0299 (under-boost) and P0234 (over-boost). 

Overboosting issues are simpler to fix as it’s likely a problem with the boost control system. Check the wastegate actuator. Make sure that the vacuum line is connected to the actuator and the actuator’s arm is connected to the turbo exhaust housing.  

Underboosting can happen for a variety of reasons. You’ll want to take off the airbox to gain access to the turbo compressor for further inspection. Check the inlet of the turbo and charge piping for oil. If there is an accumulation of oil, you have a problem; if it’s just a thin film of residue, nothing is out of the ordinary. 

While the airbox is off, it’s a good idea to check shaft play. Shaft play is the side-to-side or in-and-out play of the turbo’s rotating assembly, the latter being a definite indicator of turbo-bearing damage. A bit of side-to-side movement is normal when applying light pressure to the compressor wheel; however, if it’s too severe, and especially if it’s contacting the compressor housing, you’re dealing with damaged bearings—the turbo needs to be replaced or rebuilt.  

Luckily, journal-bearing turbos, like those found in the X3, can be serviced, granted there wasn’t a catastrophic failure.

Overheating

The other engine issue you might run into is overheating. Just like turbo failure, it can get ugly if you let it go, but luckily, overheating is pretty easy to solve.

As far as symptoms go, you don’t need to be a mechanic to identify it—if the temp gauge on your dash is reading high, you have an overheating problem. Other telltale signs would be bulging coolant hoses and the radiator boiling over—hopefully, we can catch the problem before any of these.

One of the main reasons for overheating, especially if you ride in mud, is a clogged or plugged-up radiator. This really goes for any UTV or ATV. Mud or other sediment gets built up so your radiator is no longer effective. If you're experiencing overheating, a quick clean with a pressure washer might solve all your problems.  

Didn’t help? Time to see if anything is damaged. The thermostat is supposed to open around 185°F. Let your rig idle in the driveway and see if the radiator begins to warm up when it reaches 185°F. If not, replace the thermostat.  

The next thing to check would be the water pump. You’ll need to remove it from the rig and inspect the impeller for damage. If it is damaged, replace it. 

If all else fails, it may be worth investing in an aftermarket oil cooler or high-capacity radiator.

Transmission and Drivetrain Problems

Drivetrain problems can pop up on the Maverick X3, especially in certain model years. Rarely is it a problem with the CVT transmission; rather, it is one of the clutches or the drive belt.

Symptoms of drivetrain problems are pretty universal across the board. If you have any of these, it might be time to look at the drivetrain:

● Jerking or inconsistent power delivery

● High revving before clutch engagement

● High revving when cruising

● Hard shifts

● Loss of power

Belt Issues

The belt is a wear item, so if you experience any of these and/or a burnt rubber smell, a belt is a good place to start. 

Get yourself a high-quality aftermarket belt to get the most riding time between changes. This is especially important if your X3 is making more power than stock. StarknightMT offers a replacement belt, along with a host of other upgrades for your X3, such as storage, doors, and windshields.

If you replace the belt just to find that you still have the same issues or that the new one wears at an excessive rate, it’s time to dive a bit deeper.

Secondary Clutch Issues

If your X3 is from 2017-2022, you might have a misaligned secondary clutch. You can do some diagnosis by pulling off the clutch cover and idling your X3. Watch the secondary clutch; it shouldn’t rotate at idle (only the primary should). 

You could try a new clutch, a rebuild, or go straight for ‘float mod’. A floating secondary is an aftermarket kit that allows the secondary to follow the primary clutch, effectively eliminating deflection.

Suspension and Frame Concerns

It seems like every platform has to have an Achilles heel. Despite the X3 being an all-around solid machine, early models (pre-2022 update) have issues with a weak frame. How bad is it? We’d consider it the weakest point on these rigs. 

Frame issues don’t just come from collision (although you’d be surprised just how little it takes to cause damage). Jumps, high-speed riding, or hitting a stump or rock can cause the frame to crack or even outright fail, ripping off a suspension arm.

We’ll start by going over how to identify potential frame weaknesses, what to do if you find issues, and finally, what can be done to prevent them.

Identifying Frame Issues

If you slide into a tree and rip your trailing arm out of the chassis mount, the problem is obvious. But even without collision damage, you should still check your frame for cracks or bends. 

Most issues occur in the rear, so that’s the first place to check—that’s what bears most of the weight. Start by cleaning any dust or debris off the frame. You want to check for cracks in any area where two or more tubes come together. Check the pickup points of the suspension arms: trailing arm, sway bar, control arm, knuckles, etc. Ensure that the suspension arms are straight with no obvious bends. 

Checking the frame is important whether you own a 2017-2022 X3, or you’re in the market for a used one.

Fixing Frame Cracks  

What to do if your X3 has cracks on the frame? If the chassis is still in alignment, you can weld the cracked areas back together in situ. If you don’t have welding capabilities or doubt your skill, have a professional do it.  

If there's a gap forming between the cracks, tie-down steps might be needed to pull the chassis back into alignment before welding. Don’t fill in a gap with weld! It will be weaker than before.

Preventing Frame Failures

What about preventing all of this in the first place? Luckily, there are aftermarket frame reinforcement kits. These can either be bolt-in-style frame stiffeners or weld-in gusset kits. Some of them even add more tubing to the chassis. Fitting a weld-in kit can get pricey if you’re not doing it yourself, but, whichever you choose, it will save you from disaster in the future.

Maintenance and Prevention Tips

As always, staying up on maintenance will help extend the life of your rig. The turbo, for example, is lubricated with oil, so frequent oil changes will help keep it in working order. Here, we’ll go over some other must-dos for your Maverick X3 to make your life easier down the road.

Keep Things Greased

Really, it would be best to do this before you even ride your X3 for the first time. But if not, you need to grease up your rig… ASAP.  

The factory does a poor job in some areas, such as the wheel bearings, and grease is nonexistent in others, such as the axle ends. If your Can-Am sees water, rust will make it a nightmare to remove those axles in the future. Here are some areas to grease:

● Wheel bearings

● Axle splines (inside and out)

● 2x upper control arm zerks (per corner)

● 2x lower control arm zerks (per corner)

● Rear sway bar

For the wheel bearings, you’ll need a special tool. Luckily, StarknightMT offers specialty greasing tools for the Maverick and other Can-Am models.

Add a Blow Off Valve

We’re not going to get into the technical reason why a BOV extends turbo life, but the bottom line is that most factory turbo systems come with them. For some reason, Can-Am didn't see it as necessary, despite these rigs running a healthy amount of boost.  

Luckily, the aftermarket has options for BOVs. Some kits vent to the atmosphere, while others are quieter because they recirculate air to the inlet. Both types will help extend the life of your turbo.

Conclusion

In short, the first thing we would recommend addressing on the X3 is the frame (especially 2017-22). The engine and drivetrain have their quirks, but what powertrain doesn’t? If you're going to be turning up the boost on your X3, you want the appropriate supporting mods: a frame-stiffening kit, BOV, and drive belt. There’s a lot more you can do to this platform, but this is a good starting place.

FAQs 

Q1: Will a blow-off valve void the warranty on my X3?

A1: Yes, it’s a modification, so it will void the warranty, just like an ECU reflash. The good thing is that a BOV is relatively easy to reverse. Your turbo will probably fail after the warranty has expired, so it’s a good idea to extend the life with a BOV anyway.

Q2: Do 2022+ Can-Am X3s have the same frame issues as the older models?

A2: No, the frame is beefed up on the 22+ models. While a reinforcement kit isn’t needed for late models, it’s still not a bad idea, as it gives extra rigidity.

Q3: What type of grease should I use on the Maverick X3?

A3: A waterproof or water-resistant grease is best if you often get your X3 wet. You could even go as far as marine-grade grease.